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The Age Of The Felt Hat "Ma Juyuan": Ill Luck

2010/11/17 13:45:00 124

"Time-Honored Brand" Luxury Dream Beijing

Neon flashing

北京王府井大街上,为老北京所熟知的卖毡帽的百年老字号“马聚源”黑底金字的招牌仿佛在述说它那悠久的历史。而“80后”的章玲和她的同事每次在王府井逛街经过的时候,出于好奇,仅仅会探头往里面张望一下,便立即转入街角陈列着国际大牌服装和化妆品的东安商场。


"Most young people feel that the Chinese time-honored brand has a long history, but it is very earthy."

Ding Huimin, director of the China Time-honored Brand Committee, counted the more than 2000 time-honored members of China's time-honored brands including Ma Juyuan, and regretted to the first financial daily.

Despite the long history and unique technology of those international luxury brands, China's time-honored brand has not only gained the brand promotion due to the accumulation of time, but is on the decline.


Same gene, different fate


The glass cabinets display photos of the hats made for Zhou Enlai and Liu Shaoji abroad, but not all the old felt hats are sold in the Wangfujing store.

Ma Juyuan has told reporters that in order to change the impression that Ma Yuan Yuan is a traditional old brand, in recent years, Ma Yuan Yuan has invited many "post-80s" designers, but few young consumers have attracted them.


although

China

It has become the world's second largest consumer of luxury goods, but almost all local brands are absent from the local luxury goods market.

Why do foreign brands with the same historical accumulation can go to the high end and become the high value-added brands that everyone envied, but most of China's time-honored brands are struggling at the edge of survival?


There are mainly several types of successful luxury brands: one is the unique scarcity.

Such as the Seven Star BurjAl-Arab Hotel, Patek Philippe watches, and so on, mostly because their output, raw materials, location or craft, services are rather scarce; and for example, Louis sixteen, Cadillac, Hennessy, chieftain palace and so on create respectable luxury, often with the history and the use of people are inseparable, people to the celebrity character's admiration to the product, creating a high-end and noble feeling.

In fact, many of the genes in Chinese time-honored brands are similar to this type.


The other is to emphasize taste.

Vodka

Davidoff, Chivas, Armani, ZIPPO and other clothing, tobacco and alcohol consumption of luxury goods.

By shaping the product image, the enterprise can enhance the emotional added value of the product and make it a symbol of consumption taste.

And Dior, SK- II and other depicted dream luxury goods are more common in the cosmetics industry. Quality is their first guarantee. Good results and good wishes are the first elements to arouse consumers' desire to buy.

These two types of domestic brands are trying, but the effect remains to be seen.


By analyzing the above factors, Christian Blanckaert, once chairman of the French Fine Arts Association, told reporters recently in Shanghai that luxury brands are selling more than others, and there are deep reasons for them. Christian Blanckaert,

In addition to its long history and noble origin, luxuries are unique in terms of material, quality and technology.


Ways to improve luxury brands


What is universally envied by domestic enterprises is the high brand of international luxury goods.

added value

And the resulting high price, such as GUCCI (GUCCI), whose average selling price is several times or even tens of times the production price, is no longer a secret.


In fact, a number of brands with unique technological characteristics in China, such as the high-end brand "twin sister" built by Shanghai Jiahua (600315), or "China's time-honored brand", such as "Kong Feng Chun", "Wang Xing Ji", "Zhang Xiaoquan" and "Xi Bao Bao", are also making ambitious preparations for entering the military luxury industry.


For China's time-honored brand, which wants to become an international luxury brand, he believes that a successful international luxury brand is a famous luxury brand in China.

If China's time-honored brand wants to become the world's first class, it should first become the first class luxury brand in China.

In this process, down-to-earth and hard work is the key.


"For many Chinese brands that already have brand awareness, especially the time-honored brands, how to enhance the value of brands like luxury brands is the most noteworthy."

Jiang Hongbo, general manager of Hangzhou Kong Feng Chun Cosmetics Co., Ltd., told reporters.


Kong Fengchun recently launched a crystal goose egg powder priced at 680 yuan, almost surpassing the prices of similar products such as Chanel, Dior, Estee Lauder and other major international brands.


"Not a LOGO, but a brand."

Shen Lifeng, a retail director of the French luxury Chinese region, told reporters.

Most of the successful luxury enterprises have long adhered to the established strategy in addition to their core competitiveness.

"But many enterprises in China are like women who lose weight. They rarely adhere to it for a long time. Most entrepreneurs have the concept of making money rather than the concept of" making brand "for a long time.


Christopher's suggestion for Chinese time-honored brands is that they can enhance their brand from special packaging, special contents, special history, special symbolic colors, high-quality designers, and so on.

"Behind these qualities, there is actually tremendous work to produce what a lot of people want to have."

"It takes a long time to accumulate and constantly improve the details," he said.


Shen Lifeng believes that many Chinese time-honored enterprises have been very distinctive, but they are only known by the older generation of consumers, and are very low in young people.

"Innovation is an important concept of luxury brands."

He said that almost every luxury brand is growing in constant innovation, and this innovation is not only a product innovation, but a comprehensive innovation, such as marketing means, brand strategy and so on.


For example, the old Beijing people known as "the head of the horse gathering source, wearing Rui Xiang Xiang, the inner leg of the pedal, waist tied four big Heng" in the league, has made for the Qing emperor Royal custom cloth shoes.

It was very similar to Hermes, a famous French fashion brand.

The two were founded in nineteenth Century, serving the courts of their own country. They were all hand made products in the initial stage, and they made cloth shoes and made harnesses for Hermes.


When the car began to replace horses, Hermes carried out a clear and innovative pformation in a timely manner.

Hermes did not split up with his harness. Instead, he grabbed the opportunity that "horses would be eliminated, but there are still unlimited business opportunities for all kinds of vehicles", positioning itself as an "honorable trip" for upper class society, turning into production seats, suitcases, belts, gloves and famous silk scarves.

Hermes's LOGO reserved the carriage, hinting at its centenary foundation and its starting line, and at the same time not overly publicize it, but let the fashion and history be linked together.


However, like most Chinese time-honored brands, the inner League still sticks to the characteristics of the "century old shop".

When the age has been flooded with new things, the inner League still stays in the content of "classical" cloth shoes, which is not enough to follow up customers' emotions and needs.

In fact, when leisure shoes, sports shoes and leather shoes dominate the era of double feet, it is difficult to stick to cloth shoes and become bigger and stronger luxury brands.


The old shop has luxurious dreams.


If I give you 1 million, what will you do? Most domestic brands may be used to advertise and increase exposure.

Recently, CCTV golden time advertising tendering has gone to a new high, and this strategy has been shown.


"But most luxury brands will tell you that it will be used for customer relationship maintenance."

Christian said that the luxury industry is a complex industry with a special business model. Even advertising is an image advertisement.


When it comes to Chinese brands, Shen Lifeng believes that many enterprises are too eager for quick success and instant benefits when they are making brands, and they can't expect to see profits in one or two years.

If not, give up or change immediately.

"A lot of businesses are like pigs, but not like a wife.

This is not suitable for luxury brands. Luxury brands need long-term and huge investment.


The peak of professional managers who have served the international top brands such as Hermes and Bottega Veneta think that the Chinese time-honored brand is not lacking in history or lack of excellent craft, and many have their own values. However, "how to make this concept of value become a shared value concept in the world is worth exploring in depth. In addition, the brand is also the unity of content and form, and how to express this brand form through the design of world culture is also worth exploring."


At the same time, it should also be considered in the form of communication.

"It's like making friends."

Peak said, "brand should also appear in the right place to dialogue with the right group, these are the old brand in the promotion of brand must be considered."

Shanghai Jahwa is building a luxury brand "twin sister". With 30 thousand yuan / m2 decoration, 75 yuan per square meter per day rents the store in Shanghai the Peace Hotel, where luxury goods are gathered, and has a long-term preparation for battle.


"Trade associations can also play a role," said Chris tion, the French boutique Association, which manages more than 70 high-end value brands.

The association does not participate in the daily operation of these brands, but it will promote French luxury goods at the international level, or organize legal personnel to do some lobbying work.


"However, Chinese brands need not be self belittling."

After shopping at luxuries CEO Lian Ting Kai, after attending many luxuries summit, found that many luxury brands may still be twenty or thirty person family businesses, including Hermes, Virgin Atlantic and so on, but now they have become famous brands.


In the 80s of last century, Virgin Atlantic was only a series of small store chains, and then gradually developed into a large flagship store.

After launching its own airline, it was able to extravagant itself by providing luxury services in its own way of continuous innovation, such as providing ironing suits for the business class passengers arriving at the destination. To facilitate passengers to sleep during the flight, dinner was provided before the flight of New York Paris instead of boarding.


"Luxury means innovation that enhances practicality, increases attractiveness and ultimately achieves better results, and thus leads to high price reasons.

And whenever it presents itself in other ways, it doesn't matter, but it always hits. "

Christian said.

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