What Is The Most Lacking Of Clothing Brand And Enterprises In China?

What are the perplexities and ills of Chinese clothing enterprises in the value chain? Why do Chinese clothing brands always make people feel worthless?

In the clothing value chain, the recognized profit distribution structure is: Design accounts for 40%, marketing accounts for 50%, and production accounts for 10%.

That is, design and

At present, China's clothing industry is at the low end of the global value chain.

Obviously, China's garment industry needs strategic pformation, which needs to be molded from the industrial chain to the value chain. China's clothing brand needs butterfly change and needs the sublimation of the soul.

But the apparel industry chain is relatively long, so we need to break through many links to better build the cost chain.

What are the perplexities and stubborn problems of Chinese clothing enterprises in the value chain? Why do Chinese clothing brands always make people feel worthless? Chinese garment enterprises have been working hard, why has their status in the value chain has not fundamentally changed?

The most lack of brand value

What is the most lacking of clothing brand and enterprises in China?

"Soft power! Our comprehensive hard power is not bad.

The core of value creation is soft power, that is, brand value.

Chen Dapeng, executive vice president of the China clothing association, said, "what support does it rely on? The most important thing is culture, and culture depends on historical accumulation."

"Fashion industry needs time to accumulate, and brand needs cultural accumulation."

Miao Hongbing, chairman of Beijing white collar Fashion Co. Ltd., said that foreign high-end brands had at least eighty or ninety years of history, and the concept of fashion in Chinese clothing industry was less than 20 years ago. So there must be many problems in brands and so on.

The core problem is that the brand lacks value support.

"China's clothing brand has not yet formed the root value support, and the core of supporting value is unique brand culture, which wins the respect in people's hearts, which is the most important symbol of brand value."

Xia Hua, chairman of Beijing Yiwen group.

This is related to the growth background of Chinese garment enterprises.

In the view of Xia Hua, Chinese clothing enterprises had problems at the beginning of their development, because most entrepreneurs made clothes with the mentality of survival. The goal was to change their destinies, and to make money is the result. The brand is only a process and a path.

This is exactly the opposite of European practitioners, so what we are seeing now is luxury in Europe.

Out of global value chain

China's garment industry has developed under the background of the undertaking and pfer of big industries in the world, and the industrial system has been established.

Chen Dapeng said: "but now facing pformation and upgrading, we should move from manufacturing power to powerful country, from quantity manufacturing to value creation.

Through the value creation of the industrial chain, the garment industry will go to the top of the value chain.

This is the upgrading process of the industrial chain, as well as the process of improving and building the value chain. "

From the perspective of the layout and structure of the domestic garment industry, it is concentrated in the eastern coastal areas. Among them, five provinces in Shandong, Fujian, Zhejiang, Jiangsu and Guangdong account for 80% of the total garment industry in China. More than 10 thousand enterprises above Designated Size account for 70% of the total industry output, but exports account for only 30%, and 70% of the exports are borne by 90% small and medium-sized enterprises.

With the increase of comprehensive cost, the pfer of industry to the central and western parts of the country is a major trend, and some of them may be pferred to other developing countries.

Although China's clothing industry has the characteristics of industrial clusters, the associated resource clusters are also conducive to maximizing efficiency, while the latter advantages have not yet been fully realized, but this has not fundamentally changed our collapse in the global value chain.

YOUNGOR (600177, stock bar) and other major domestic brand manufacturers began to control the clothing value chain in the domestic market, but these private brands are still difficult to stand in the international market and have little control over the global value chain.

Collective lack of self-confidence

There is a common phenomenon in China's clothing industry: foreign names are rampant.

Many Chinese clothing brands always want domestic consumers to not recognize that they are Chinese brands.

Behind this phenomenon, it reflects the overall self confidence of practitioners and consumers.

The unconfidence of enterprises stems from the helpless choice of market competition. If we say that we are foreign brands, "competitiveness" seems to improve immediately; conversely, to say that we are local brands, not only will our partners put pressure on them, but consumers will not buy them.

Designers are also not confident, do not dare to let go of their feet and bold designs.

But in the final analysis, these self doubt is largely due to consumers' lack of confidence. They feel dignified and identities when they wear foreign brands and luxury goods.

"When Chinese people wear a very bad dress, they have no problems. Chinese people are very confident."

Miao Hongbing said.

Another important reason is that in the past, we overemphasized China as a big manufacturing country, resulting in the country's external image without the concept of fashion.

Is a country without a fashion concept capable of making fashions? It is also reasonable for others to be suspicious.

Therefore, if we want to get our due position in the value chain, Chinese clothing brands can not simply imitate, we must make their own personality.

Miao Hongbing said: "imitation will drown individuality. In the long term development, this is equivalent to chronic suicide.

We need time to cultivate self-confidence. "

No fashion discourse right.

The embarrassment of Chinese garment enterprises is that there is no right to speak at the end of the brand, and can not speak at the end of design.

China's garment industry almost loses its voice in the world fashion industry.

"The prevailing trend in fashion is based on information released in Europe and America."

Cheng Weixiong, vice president of American Apparel (002269, stock bar), said: "it is not yet possible for us to go beyond the original ability of Europe and America.

China has not really formed its own clothing culture, and is still under the control of Europe and the United States.

This is the cruelty of the Chinese clothing industry.

The competitive pattern of the fashionable world has long been established, and the European and American countries such as France, Italy, Britain and the United States are in a monopoly position.

This is history.

"There is no world-class talent, no world-class design master, no people who can influence the voice of world fashion, this is not the sadness of China's clothing industry, but the tragedy of the country."

Miao Hongbing said, "China is really influential in the fashion industry. Our generation is unlikely to achieve it. It can only be seen after the two or three generation.

Therefore, do not give the Chinese fashion so much pressure, it takes time to change.

Design ability is bruising.

If the product quality is no problem, then the design and development is the soul of the product and brand.

"The design and development of China's clothing industry still stays in the stage of plagiarism and imitation.

Well done enterprises are just beginning to have a little bit of their own style. "

Wang Jianjun, general manager of Busen apparel Limited by Share Ltd, said: "the market has changed so fast that the environment has made everyone impetuous. It is hard for us to concentrate on the changes in the whole garment industry. It is even harder to let the brand sink. No one wants to spend too much time polishing the value chain."

Xia Hua also believes that the Chinese clothing industry's original original subversive design is too little, and its design is micro innovation.

Obviously, minimally invasive new technology can not really affect the world fashion industry, nor can we change our position in the value chain design side.

In fact, we are not only lack of original ability, but also lack of pformation ability.

"A lot of things are purely plagiarism and imitation. They are led by the European and American winds and the Japanese and Japanese wind. They do not have their own design personalities, nor do they have their own brand names. If they remove the trademarks, they will not know who they are."

Cheng Weixiong said, "the pformation ability is not enough, and the rapid reaction to the market will not be in place.

Transformation is not simply copying and copying, but integrating into some of its own things.

In the final analysis, it's human's problem.

Xia Hua believes that our designers lack stamina, can not settle down to do things, and lack the basic skills to integrate their ancestors' culture into their own thoughts and integrate into the experience. What's more, they don't have the life experience of high-end customers, just like those who have never played golf to design clothes for golfer.

In Miao Hongbing's view, Chinese culture is quite conventional. This way of thinking is quite different from the creation of fashion art, and it also limits people's creative power.

In fact, the design of domestic clothing brand pays more attention to the single design of running volume, and it can only stay in local thinking.

The internationalization design pays more attention to the preliminary planning and overall thinking, because it can provide a direction for subsequent design projects.

Brands can hardly be respected.

Marketing is also a short board for Chinese garment enterprises.

The short board finally appeared in the brand building that insisted on details.

Wang Jianjun said: "improving and paying attention to details is an attitude of making brand, and we often think: almost do it."

Brand positioning is broad, not professional and lacks depth. Homogenization is a serious problem for Chinese clothing brands.

In the realm of brand operation, the gap between us and world-class brands is very obvious.

For example, the exhibition of Louis Vuitton's art trip in National Museum is a way of promotion. It is no longer standing in the perspective of a brand, but standing on the top of the fashion industry to make a brand trip.

China's clothing brands dare not spend so much money doing such things, and more still want to spend money on major events.

But high-end brands need long-term investment and need comprehensive strength to support them.

In terminal management, we still stay in the clothing enterprise state, not rising to the clothing brand state.

Miao Hongbing said: "many domestic brands do not care about the image of the terminal. Even if they have done something, they can not afford to torture.

For example, visiting famous stores and visiting ordinary stores bring different experiences.

A famous brand shop will give you a sense of oppression and force you not to indulge. This atmosphere gives you a sense of respect for it.

And ordinary shops make you feel indulgent. It's hard for you to respect it.

China's brand is really difficult for consumers to respect at the terminal.

This should cause enough attention in our industry.

The supply chain is fragmented.

Many of China's garment enterprises are far apart from the large international enterprises in terms of quick response capability of supply chain.

This has much to do with the fragmentation of our supply chain.

"This is not because Chinese clothing enterprises do not work hard, but are restricted by the great environment, and are also related to the market operation system of the enterprises.

Domestic enterprises take more forms of joining agents, while foreign brands do more.

Cheng Weixiong said, "we should have done the value chain according to the market demand, but we are still doing more value chain or supply chain from our own needs.

Production, design, procurement and other supply chain are fragmented in their respective operations.

In reality, the process flow of domestic garment enterprises is still top-down, which belongs to the traditional planned operation process, and has not really played a role in the pformation of the entire value chain or supply chain.

Obviously, this is not conducive to the rapid reaction of enterprises to the market.

For example, the domestic clothing brands usually finish the order in half a year, and quickly convert all the products to the retailers, resulting in more regular goods and less popular products, resulting in a shortage of goods, resulting in the uncoordinated supply and demand between the market.

Cheng Weixiong said, "do you think this can make the products popular? It is very difficult for an enterprise to solve this problem.

It takes time to change. "

Faced with a disadvantageous position in the global apparel value chain, Chinese garment enterprises need to have the courage to reinvent the value chain, change their position in the value chain, and win the genuine respect of the Chinese clothing brand.

Enterprises can start from the core link of value chain design, marketing, strategy and so on, and find ways to solve the problem.

Design is root

To enhance design and development capabilities, it is necessary to maintain proper long-term investment.

As mentioned earlier, Chinese clothing enterprises can also focus on the following aspects.

Cultivate strong minds of designers.

"When dealing with foreign designers, it is never too late to drink coffee.

This is the life of others, slow culture and slow work.

"In addition, even if he is not a designer, there will be a sense of pride from his heart," said Xia Hua Shen, chairman of Beijing Yiwen group.

In the view of Xia Hua, domestic designers are different from them in terms of lifestyle and inner values.

Foreign designers don't necessarily sell everything, but they all have full confidence.

Most designers in China still want to design for survival. If the design is not done well, they may be criticized by the boss, and the bonus can not be obtained.

Therefore, enterprises should give designers enough respect, because the self-confidence of designers needs a long process.

Manage the design system well.

Design and development is a systematic project, which includes both previous planning and overall layout, including the intermediate design and development itself, as well as the market operation of the finished products, which needs systematic management, otherwise it is easy to disconnect from each other.

Domestic clothing enterprises often only focus on the situation of product run, which is obviously not conducive to the sustainable development of design and development and the increase of brand value.

Improve pformation ability.

This can make up for the lack of originality.

Without the ability of original design and development, enterprises can pform on the basis of imitation, combined with Chinese culture and consumer needs, but this pformation needs to contain original things, but not 100% original.

For example, according to the fashion trend and market demand, we should make some styling design and increase the technical content in the product. If the pformation is in place, we can also achieve the effect of increasing the added value.

Optimize the design of board selection mode.

In the middle and high grade clothing enterprises, the designers dominate the clothing plate type, and the owner of the designer is also the dominant designer.

Enterprises can further improve and optimize the design of board selection to avoid unnecessary risks.

Marketing is the leaf

In the marketing strategy to enhance the value of clothing brand, we should focus on solving three major problems: brand culture, subdivision and channel utilization.

Gradually enrich the brand culture connotation.

The pformation of clothing brand from low value-added to high value-added needs a process, and the brand needs the accumulation of cultural details.

Xia Hua believes that at present, the time of Chinese clothing brands is too short. "Therefore, we should do a good job of cultural grafting, pform the unique culture of China into the internal components of the brand, and build up the brand value support system.

As long as the logic of cultural grafting is reasonable and we insist on doing it, we will succeed in grafting someday.

In the process of enriching brand culture, enterprises should also pay special attention to details, integrate details into brand blood, and make them an important part of brand culture.

Product segmentation and brand extension have degrees.

Clothing products also have life cycle and market radiance, and the product segmentation introduced by market segmentation is logical, thus achieving brand extension.

Wang Jianjun, general manager of Busen apparel Limited by Share Ltd, said: "there will not be so many brands in the future. There will be some iconic brands.

Brand positioning will be more precise, professional, and subdivided, not as big and full as it is now.

Of course, enterprises should also clearly realize that brand extension and authorization business is also a double-edged sword of brand value increase or decrease.

Armani, the world famous brand, has adopted a brand extension strategy to build a huge brand of Pyramid. It has also authorized the business to expand the product line, and repurchased OEM factories and some franchisees for long-term cooperation to strengthen control over production and channel links.

These practices rapidly amplify their brand influence, but the long product line and excessive brand extension have also greatly diluted the high-end image of its brand, causing its brand value to be damaged.

Innovative channel mode.

Without affecting the brand positioning, enterprises can try to change the format of business.

When UNIQLO, H&M, ZARA and other brands entered the Chinese market, they introduced the concept of stores and adopted supermarket self-help shopping.

In addition, many garment enterprises are trying to build e-commerce platform, but independent or outsourcing depends on the actual situation of their own.

Strategy is the trunk.

In order to gain a favorable position in the global apparel value chain and the domestic apparel value chain, enterprises can consider the following aspects in the strategic level.

Industrial chain integration innovation.

"The whole industrial environment is forcing us to improve our design, R & D, brand, marketing and other aspects. We can no longer rely on the OEM mode simply, otherwise we will lose our way.

In the international market, China's clothing industry needs to find new positioning. "

Chen Dapeng said that Italy's industrial clusters have gathered a number of small and medium-sized enterprises. They are very professional in cooperation with big brands, but they have been very vigilant about the development of Chinese enterprises to the top of the value chain. They worry that the future single enterprises or single majors will not compete. However, Chinese enterprises are doing the integration of industrial chains so as to enhance their competitiveness and ensure their inherent position in the global value chain.

Similarly, if China's clothing brand wants to go out, it will be very difficult if there is no very good support from the international supply chain.

"To create a supply chain process, we should truly form a management process system from below and integrate with the international market.

This is what Chinese garment enterprises lack at present. "

Cheng Weixiong said.

Cut the global value chain from high-end.

The long-term export oriented strategy of China's clothing industry has consciously or unconsciously led domestic garment enterprises to cut into global value chains relying on low-level elements, and cut into the global low-end demand market in the form of subcontracting.

According to the empirical research findings of Gereffi, the four sequential upgrading paths in the global apparel value chain are technological upgrading, product upgrading, function upgrading, and chain upgrading.

Studies also show that there are rapid upgrading spaces in the two stages of process upgrading and product upgrading, and the upgrading of functions and upgrading of the chain is difficult to break through, because the latter two upgrading means setting up the dominant position of enterprises in the global value chain.

Therefore, in addition to taking the path of upgrading from OEM to ODM and OBM, Chinese garment enterprises can enhance their position in the value chain, and adopt the way of directly entering the global value chain from the high-end, thus directly participating in the global value chain competition.

This will help to improve the discourse power of Chinese garment enterprises in the world fashion industry.

Some high-end clothing companies in China have already made such an attempt.