What'S The Difference Between "Huafu" And "Hanfu"

At the end of July, hot and dry weather and rain from typhoons dominated the city. At the New International Expo Center in Pudong New Area, China joy, which is still in full swing, is different from that in previous years.

Under the influence of the epidemic, the faces of visitors coming and going in the exhibition hall were covered by masks. In addition to JK, Lolita, COSPLAY and other "traditional" cognition of the second-dimensional clothing, the crowd appeared a lot of wearing various forms of Chinese clothing exhibition audience. These young people in long robes, or covered with a light gauze, or tied up a delicate bun, in the exhibition hall especially eye-catching.

This seems to show the spreading power of Chinese clothing culture in the Z generation from one side. Under the background of cultural self-confidence and original weighting, there are more and more Chinese clothing lovers and businesses, and the circle radiation force as a minority hobby is also growing.

However, various problems still exist: what is the possibility of the future development of Huafu? How to create a good original environment for this industry? How to meet the diverse communication and expression needs of Chinese clothing lovers? How to improve the industrial chain closed loop of Hanfu?

On the afternoon of July 31, China Mobile Migu's product "Migu circle" version upgrade conference was held at ChinaJoy, which will build a "new generation of one-stop cloud platform for Chinese clothing culture service". Some observations and feelings of hedgehog commune at the press conference site may provide some thoughts.

　　 Flying clothes

First of all, what is the difference between "Huafu" and "Hanfu"?

Combined with the discussions in various forums, we can distinguish them in terms of concept and scope. Huafu originally refers to gorgeous clothing, but also has the meaning of traditional Chinese national clothing. Hanfu, also known as "traditional costume of Han nationality", was shaped in Zhou Dynasty and inherited in Qin Dynasty. In terms of scope, Chinese clothing covers a wider range, while Hanfu only includes individual styles.

The "Chinese costume day" initiated by the Central Committee of the Communist Youth League (CYL) has adopted a broader and more rigorous concept of "Chinese clothing".

Only on the Internet, people have become accustomed to using "Hanfu" to refer to all national traditional costumes. In essence, Hanfu is Huafu.

According to the consumption report "definition and characteristics of generation Z" released by Qingshan capital in mid July 2021, generation Z has experienced the historical stages of the popularization of mobile Internet, the rise of vertical content and circle, the rise of national unity and cultural confidence, and as the only child generation, they have a high degree of national confidence and self recognition, The pursuit of belonging and identity.

Such characteristics are reflected thoroughly in the consumption of Chinese clothes. Generation Z is keen to join the circle and create its own "people's facilities". At this time, Huafu takes on the role of "label". On the one hand, it meets its own pursuit of belonging, on the other hand, it revives traditional national culture, which makes the psychological needs of young people meet in many aspects.

According to the AI media consulting data report, from 2015 to 2020, the sales scale of China's Hanfu market will soar from 190 million yuan to 6.36 billion yuan. It is estimated that the sales scale of Chinese Hanfu market will exceed 10 billion yuan in 2021. By the end of 2020, the number of Chinese Hanfu merchants has exceeded 1500. According to the "insight report on consumption trend of Hanfu in 2020" released by tmall, 18 million consumers have purchased Hanfu in tmall, and the potential consumers of Hanfu have reached 415 million.

The bright market performance also promotes the capital to rush into the Hanfu track, and the emerging enterprises and investors have a keen sense of smell to join the battlefield. According to 36 krypton, in April 2021, Hanfu brand "more than 13" completed a round of financing of more than 100 million yuan, with zhengxingu and station B jointly leading the investment and bubble Mart following the investment. Previously, by the end of 2020, Guofeng photography brand pan women's workshop received 100 million yuan of financing from Challenger capital, which will be mainly used for upgrading customer service experience and optimizing the Han clothing industry chain of Pan women's brand "Congyi Huafu".

"Hanfu fever" is in the ascendant, and the market potential is accelerating to release. These data may be able to answer us, how big is the scale of the Chinese clothing market, and what is the possibility of its future development. Capitalization and industrial chain may become the key words of the next Chinese clothing industry.

But in line with the development of all emerging industries, the rapid development of the market will inevitably bring many problems.

Shuyu, from Zhongshan, Guangdong Province, entered the pit of Hanfu in 2014. She was an early Hanfu enthusiast. She mentioned Cao county to Hedgehog commune. In May 2021, an article about the Hanfu manufacturing industry in Caoxian, Shandong Province, was launched on Weibo. According to the article, the Hanfu made by Caoxian accounts for one third of the market. This county town with a permanent population of less than one million has made a fortune by making traditional costumes and costumes. 95% of the Shanzhai Hanfu in the market once came from Caoxian, Shandong Province.

Some Chinese clothing products that claim to be "original" may also have the problem of plagiarism. Shuyu once found that: "if there are some edges, just copy other people's color or pattern, and find some similar ones（ Now) the protection of original products is not in place. I hope that there will be more originality, and then the protection of original products should also be in place. "

In addition to the controversial issues of Shanzhai and copyright protection, some forums also summarized the problems existing in today's Hanfu circle: excessive marketing, low quality, high price... All kinds of problems need to be solved urgently.

These may be more focused on the consumption level. From the perspective of cultural communication or group consensus, the limited influence of offline activities, the lack of a cohesive communication community, and the difficulty in forming a transparent and orderly market atmosphere are also unfavorable factors hindering the further development of the Chinese clothing industry.

There is no doubt that these problems need to be alleviated or solved if the Chinese clothing industry is to develop healthily.

From online to offline

Shuyu is a contestant in the final of "luoshang Huafu competition". Zhongshan City, where she lives, has hosted the South China competition of luoshang Huafu competition. The competition, jointly organized by China Mobile Migu and ChinaJoy, started publicity and preparation in April and completed the final at ChinaJoy in Shanghai at the end of July. The whole competition lasted more than two months.

At the beginning, Shuyu was just holding the mentality of playing. She didn't expect to go to the final. However, after competitions, she felt her own improvement: "every time, you have to think about your own clothes to match. I don't mean that as long as I can show, I need not only external beauty, but also internal beauty, because we have talent competitions. Yesterday, I saw that many girls are good at all kinds of martial arts. Many of them are very good at dancing, singing and musical instruments. My talent is classical dance. "

This is the first time that Shuyu has come to Shanghai. Although she is only running at the two ends of the meeting hall and hotel, she is still excited. In a strange big city, she meets friends from all over the world. Girls of almost the same age come to Shanghai after two rounds of competitions. Shuyu is very happy to meet these excellent colleagues. When she first learned about Hanfu, Hanfu was still a minority culture. Now, there are more and more fans and various organizations and activities. She thinks it is "very good".

"I think the offline competition is mainly able to bring a lot of people together, because it has a much wider audience all over the country (holding auditions) than in a single place." People who like Chinese clothes are gathered together to form an atmosphere of communication, which can spread minority culture in large-scale activities in a more direct way.

Online and offline simultaneous extension, this is China Mobile Migu's playing method on the Hanfu track. Offline competition is an important part of shaping the "Chinese clothing environment". The group consensus gathered through the online community needs to be communicated in the real scene. From the online communication community to the offline gathering of friends, the influence of Huafu is better expanded, the group ownership is enhanced, and the Chinese clothing culture is spread in an all-round way.

"Luoshang Huafu competition" is the clarion call of a new version of China Mobile's product Migu circle. Through this national competition, we may be able to see the strategy and ambition of Migu in traditional culture.

The chief editor of Migu animation told hedgehog commune that the starting point of the development, revision and iteration of Migu circle is the needs of users. Luoshang Huafu competition is a large-scale event based on the investigation of Hanfu's comrades or fans“ Our research found that young Hanfu users are willing to show themselves offline, hope to have a bigger stage to show their beauty, and have a very strong demand to meet more friends and friends. "

For this competition, Migu hopes to achieve some goals in the industry, fans and other aspects, including playing a brand influence, providing a stage, and laying a foundation for the connection between upstream and downstream“ On the whole, I think my colleagues are very satisfied with this activity. They feel that they have found a better stage to show their style. At the same time, our Hanfu manufacturers, the organizers of Hanfu events and the organizers of China joy's overall event all gave us full affirmation and gained confidence. " Migu animation chief editor said.

So, what kind of standard should a qualified "one-stop Chinese clothing platform" reach?

At the press conference, the product director of Migu circle introduced that the newly launched Migu circle gathered the original high-quality Chinese clothing content in China, and created seven major plates, including "knowledge school", "wearing and making up", "Liangzuo release", "Huafu picture appreciation", "travel elegant collection", "yunshang photo album" and "consumption decision-making", providing "seeing, learning, gathering, shopping, traveling, traveling, etc One stop service.

These plates can basically meet most of the needs of fans in the field of Chinese clothing. From planting grass to purchasing, drawing and communicating, the station has completed the shaping of the communication environment and atmosphere of Tonghao, making the speech space more simple and pure.

For the new version of Migu circle, Shuyu is looking forward to it: "in fact, there were some platforms large and small before. If China Mobile invested this time, I think their technology and ability should be relatively strong, and they can make this platform bigger."

Originality and new national style IP

Before the establishment of Chinese clothing industry, many people thought that Hanfu was a set of clothing, or an aesthetic art pursuing external beauty and shape. But through interviews, observation and research, Migu found that Hanfu is not only a kind of clothing, but also a kind of culture. Many Hanfu enthusiasts enjoy and participate in Hanfu as a kind of culture. Makeup and shape have their own unique laws and development trends.

The future of Huafu industry is to improve the originality, create the IP of Huafu, and improve the industrial chain from design to production.

The closed-loop and barrier nature of Chinese clothing circle is a kind of circle characteristics, which can be called "cognitive moat". The characteristics of this circle determine that in the effort and service of this industry, it is necessary to further better close to the needs and psychology of consumers, and have a deeper understanding of the laws of the industry.

With the change of cognition of Huafu industry and the gradual deepening of understanding of the industry, Migu circle also ushered in the iterative upgrade of the version. From 1.0 with content community as the main content, the next step is 2.0, which serves the upstream and downstream industry chain and provides cooperation and exchange platform for the demander and supplier. Migu circle wants to be a full chain, one-stop communication service platform in the field of Chinese clothing.

In early 2021, Beijing Institute of fashion and Migu company reached an agreement to jointly build Beifu Migu creative design joint laboratory, aiming to build a creative design platform for students and provide design practice opportunities under digital industry standards.

Since the cooperation with Beifu, Migu has held a Hanfu design competition in Beifu school. Many styles and styles have been paid attention to by well-known Hanfu brands and developed into commodities. Beifu teachers and students also provide a lot of thinking and guidance for Migu's business development in the future“（ This cooperation has made a good model for our next work direction or planning this time. Next, we will cooperate more and more such colleges and universities, and then Han clothing associations, local governments and social organizations will work together to make Hanfu such a small and young circle into a big industry in line with China's development trend and cultural trend. "

"Norms are still more important. We hope the national team can play a little bit." As Shuyu said, Migu started to invest resources in cooperation and support from the design of Huafu, which is to fundamentally establish "norms" and let the market realize self purification by creating more "good coins".

In addition to Huafu products, China Mobile Migu has renewed its virtual idol IP Linxi, putting the label of "new national style" on Linxi.

Virtual idols have always attracted much attention. From the future of first tone to a-soul launched by Lehua entertainment, virtual idols are no longer exclusive to the second dimension, and gradually enter the public's vision. The audience's requirements for virtual idols are also increasing. Migu launched the third season of Linxi at this juncture, which not only meets the diverse needs of young people, but also verifies Migu's confidence in its own technology to some extent.

Linxi is a virtual idol created by Migu for many years, and also has a group of very loyal fans and fans. As China's first new national style virtual idol group, Lin Xi wants to convey not only simple singing or dancing, but also traditional Chinese elements and national spirit. At present, Linxi has become a certain level of popularity by shouldering multiple identities, such as Promotion Ambassador of China Mobile Migu "splendid plan" and image ambassador of 2021chinajoy "luoshang Huafu · rookie competition" online competition.

From a technical point of view, Migu hopes to combine China Mobile's 5g advantages, cloud services, and XR services with Linxi to continuously create more good music and works to feed and serve good fans and users.

"Whether Linxi is a spiritual product or a virtual idol with certain fans in the market, our future goal must be to enable him to realize better market value." The chief editor of Migu animation thinks that at present, the profit model of the whole virtual idol industry is not rich enough, and many virtual idols are still based on the profit modes of live broadcast and fans' assistance.

Many head virtual idols take the initiative to cooperate with big brands in the market, not for the purpose of profit, but to improve the volume of voice and expand the brand, first do the flow, and then seek a new model.

According to the introduction of Lin Xi's debut day in the third season, as a "musician", Lin Xi will first focus on his own work, serve fans well and polish his singing and dancing skills. At the same time, we will make comprehensive efforts in music, variety show, film and television track, make a song every month, meet and meet once a season, and concert once a year. We will also cooperate with famous music singers to participate in various online and offline activities as performance guests, including Migu grand ceremony series activities, Golden Rooster Film Festival, etc., and also appear in Migu's Tokyo Olympic Games studio.

Before that, Lin Xi also sang Migu's Olympic Encore "ready" and won praise from singer Lang Lang.

"As for * *, we hope to say that there will be a better performance in three to five years." Migu animation editor in chief summary.

Before the revision, Migu's slogan was "my love is the trend". A person's interest is called love, a group of people's interest is called Tonghao, and a group of people's common hobby in an era is called trend. Although the circle of Migu is in iteration, its core has not changed. Better service for the youth and deep cultivation of youth culture are always the pursuit of Migu.

This revision is the best footnotes of this pursuit. Looking back at the beginning of 2021, Migu conducted a detailed and full investigation on 70 vertical sub cultural labels of special concern to young people, and conducted in-depth interviews with young people. Among the 70 cultural labels, Hanfu is one of the most popular ones. It can be said that Chinese clothing has become a new pursuit of young people, and there are new trends in new fashion.

As for some disputes existing in the industry, the chief editor of Migu animation thinks that, like any other industry, there may be some problems in the Chinese clothing industry, but as long as the general trend is forward and upward, all problems will be solved gradually, and Migu is willing to make its own contribution to this.

From the small to the big, China Mobile Migu's efforts in the field of Hanfu can also let us feel their persistence in creating offline scenes and providing online content through advanced technology, providing more healthy spiritual and cultural products for young people, and promoting the healthy development of Internet content with the national "Qinglang campaign", Migu has a thorough understanding of its obligation to maintain the healthy and orderly development of the industry. From this point of view, Migu circle this product is far more than a "platform" so simple.

Under this background, Migu, as the first "new media national team" to develop Hanfu industry, will play its advantages in technology, content and platform to boost traditional culture, which may be worth more expectation.