What Are The Techniques In The Process Of Shoe Design?
When the standard upper part of the upper part of the upper part is bent to form a curved surface, only a straight middle line style can be used to make a single piece of shoe face part.
Therefore, the flattening process involves straightening the bent line.
Obviously, there are only a few references to the process, so beginners feel that the process is daunting and not surprising.
fundamental theory
In the surface design, the center line must be straight to ensure that the overall pattern is cut out.
But how should this process be carried out?
In this part, many styles of cutting are taught to put the upper part of the standard pattern with the center line of the curved surface placed on the straight line which will become the new midline, place the center of the curved line below the straight line, and then place the end part of the two lines above the straight line.
Two alternative ideas are shown.
Locating line segment
One
The lines are similar in size.
Therefore, people will think that when the vamp is molded, the pressure applied to each area is the same.
Line
Two
It shows an alternative location that is far away from the center of the line and away from the toes.
However, when a straight line is positioned, it is easy to overlook a very important problem if we only pay attention to the toe area and the midline of the curved surface, and this problem will become more obvious later.
Design line
AB
When the shape has to be changed, the length must remain the same, because the edge of the toe should be stitched to the boot of the design line.
The toe area needs to be supported or arched to ensure proper width above the toe.
Because this usually shortens the molding edge, it may be necessary to compensate for it by backing or arching the lower part of the rear edge of the shoe.
We will explain why this causes problems.
general rule
In fact, we can set up some general rules that can be applied to many styles of shoes for the flatten process.
The process can be summarized as follows.
Three
One step.
One
Line segment
C-A:
Determination point
O
The location of this design line (
A-O
The part will be arched without changing parts.
O-B
Meeting and line segment
X-Y
Rendezvous, then determine its location and set it as a new central line.
Two
Line segment
A-B:
From existing line segments
A-O
Intercept new line segments
A1-O-B
。
Three
Line segment
B-C:
Deciding the supporting point
P
The location here delineated a new toe area forming the sideline.
The side line and the existing line segment
C-B
blend
When the boot surface is flattened, the whole cut surface is produced by the common method, and the center line is cut by hand.
XY
As a folding line, or as a mirror line, if the computer aided system is used (
CAD
Words.
Steps in
Three
Processing side port
C-B
The external method also handles the inner edge.
The following steps will be introduced in more detail.
One
,
Two
and
Three
And explain its working principle.
In step one,
Ninety
When measuring azimuth, point
O
To the centerline
X-Y
The distance must be in line with the standard case.
O
To the midline of the curve
C-A
The closest point is the same distance.
This is because the side stitches of vamp.
A-O-B
It is divided into two parts.
Lower part
OB
The shape or position does not change. When it is connected with the boot part, there will be a green drawing line in the picture. This line controls the position of the surface, or rather, it controls the area or boot of the leg when the surface is molded.
For example, if in style,
O
Point distance centerline
X-Y
Specific surface line
C-A
Near, the upper barrel can not be properly positioned when molding.
If
O
A little higher will lead to incorrect angle of the boot relative to the ground.
keep
O
The distance from point to center is a very important problem. If people only pay attention to the middle line of shoe upper when locating the new middle line, this problem is easy to be ignored.
The angle of the line segment is even more difficult to determine, although the angle problem is not particularly critical.
Straight line
O
The gap between the front and the center line.
A
No more than
5-6
Millimeters, generally
3-4
About millimeters.
From the toes part, the line falls to the gap below the centerline.
B
It should be clearer than the gap.
A
Slightly larger.
Step 2, new line segment
A1-O-B
Must and original segment
A-O-B
The length is equal.
Remember line segment
O-B
There is no change, so
A1-O
Parts must be examined carefully.
The segment of a boot tube.
A-O
Will be sewn into the upper.
A1-O
In the side line, therefore
A1-O
Any distance line segment within a length range.
X-Y
The distance must be in accordance with
Ninety
The original line is measured.
A-O
distance
C-A
The distance is the same.
This will ensure that the "tongue piece" of the toe will be equal to the distance from the opposite side to the distance from the shoe side according to the original standard process.
Any difference here will change the fitness of boots.
In step 3,
P
The location of the dots is not important.
It should be about the line segment.
X-Y
In the middle of the molding line, in the line segment.
X-Y
Go through the lower part of the center line of the toe of the shoe.
take
P
Point as support point, using line segment.
C-A
New centerline near toes
X-Y
Above distance, line segment.
C-B
Move down.
Then the line segment and the original line segment are used.
C-B
Mix together.
from
P
After the support, the toe may look a little longer, but in fact, the molding line is shortened.
Support points only.
P2
In order to ensure that its length is unchanged, but the upper part of the front surface may be too long.
Similarly, if support points are used
P1
The upper part usually becomes too short.
As mentioned earlier, when the toe area moves downward, there is a tendency to shorten the molding line.
This is not recommended because the rear edge of the upper can be turned.
O-B
Move back to the point
O
To become a line segment.
O-B1
Extending the length of the molding line will extend the length of the molding line in the wrong position.
Line segments on boot
OB
It has not changed, but if you will segment the line
O-B1
Put it on, you will see what changes will happen in the centerline.
What is the universality of rules?
These rules apply to all sloping styles that extend to the instep of boots and shoes, and even in a slight preform design.
Indeed, many
Gibson
Shoes and
Derby
Shoes will benefit from using the same boot.
For example, using a straight line.
XY
From the point of forming
O
The absolute tension to the center line is much smaller than that of the ordinary black line.
.