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Fashion Design Of Han Costume Appreciate The Stills Of The Red Mansion'S Beautiful Clothes Again

2023/2/3 21:19:00 6

Red Chamber Royal Guards

"I'm not here to make money, I'm here to fulfill my dream of 'Red Mansion'." ——Fashion designer Shi Yanqin of the 87 version of A Dream of Red Mansions

The Dream of Red Mansions is a world of flowers. In mid spring, peaches are red and willows are green, so are the flowers in the Grand View Garden. When you mention Dream of Red Mansions, do you first think of Bao Erye's big red arrow sleeves or Sister Lin's sky blue dress?
The clothes in A Dream of Red Mansions are as knowledgeable as its characters. The so-called people wear clothes, clothes wear people, and the role of clothes in the presentation of character images cannot be underestimated.
However, in the past, Duke Cao always used "magic pen" to blur the time and region, and the book was full of colorful and wonderful clothing descriptions, including skirts in the Ming Dynasty, jackets in the Qing Dynasty, and shoulder jackets in the Yuan Dynasty... The crew of 1987 version of Dream of Red Mansions decided to The most beautiful costumes of all dynasties were selected for screening and integration, achieving the closest perfect combination of artistic reality and real life, and at the same time, the unique personality of the clothes owner was cleverly demonstrated.
On the occasion of the opening of the folk music and dance drama A Dream of Red Mansions, why not review the "gorgeous clothes" of 87 "Red Mansions" with us?

Jia Baoyu

Cao Xueqin is not only a "wealthy idler", but also the only handsome young man in Rongguo Mansion. Cao Xueqin's description of Baoyu's clothes can be said to be particularly painstaking. Once the book is available, he will work carefully and vividly. The purple gold crown, the gold plaster, and the big red arrow sleeve are colorful palace tapers, which show the style of the noble family of Zhong Mingding. But his temperament is not flashy, "Its appearance is the best, but its details are hard to know"

This "background" can be seen from his clothes. Jia Baoyu, the "Young Master Yihong", The whole body must be red, and must be bright red , beautiful and eye-catching. However, the red color does not symbolize wealth, honour and splendor. It shows the treasure hidden in the heart Enthusiasm and sincerity 。 Baochai laughed at Baoyu for calling her "doing nothing". Because Baoyu poured a cavity of enthusiasm into the girls in the Grand View Garden, the "right way" to wealth and fame, the way of Confucius and Mencius, and the economy of official career - sorry, I didn't think about it. The red color of Baoyu represents care and pure red.

When it comes to purity, we have to mention the white on Baoyu's body - the main tone of Baoyu's clothing is always red and white. Because Jia Baoyu always lives in a pure ivory tower, he is born with infatuation and refuses to obey the secular world all his life. Even if he dies at the end of the cliff, he still wears white clothes and red robes, and he is still a young man with a burning heart.

Lin Daiyu

If we read through The Red Chamber, it is not difficult to find that, contrary to Jia Baoyu, Cao Gong almost never describes Lin Daiyu's clothes. There is a cloud in the fat comment. Dai Yu is in the eyes of everyone "How can grass and grass become superior?" It can be seen that Dai Yu's human character is not restricted by clothes. Even if she is too weak to wear clothes, what exists in her body is still a wisp of immortal spirit.

So in the 87 version of A Dream of Red Mansions, Daiyu's clothes were integrated with her and became the spokesman of her life destiny.

It is necessary to reflect the extraordinary spirit of the Crimson Pearl Fairy, Lin Daiyu's delicate flowers shining on the water, weak willows supporting the wind's lightness and elegance, as well as the intelligence of being aloof. It is impossible to pick the bright red and green colors of the secular world. Daiyu often wears Light and elegant colors, such as light blue and light green, are not decorated with high-profile flower patterns, but more decorated with plum, orchid, bamboo and other "gentleman" plants. The warm colors such as red and pink were only dyed once or twice in the happiest years of her girlhood, and most of them appeared in the Daguan Garden day and night. Just like she was wearing a clean pink skirt with orchid patterns embroidered on the neckline when she was reading together under the Baoyu Peach Blossom Tree in the Western Chamber, she was quiet as if she was a fresh and beautiful little girl. As the fragrance of the Grand View Garden drifted away, her clothes became colder, just like the cold wind, withering flowers and withering grass, Until she finally returned to LiHenTian in plain white clothes - she came in white mourning gauze, and left without a flaw. In the end, a pure water hibiscus is pure and clean.

Xue Baochai

Baochai is the young "Concubine Yang" in the Grand View Garden, the elder sister Bao wearing a gold lock, and the gorgeous peony flower. But it would be a big mistake to think that Xue Baochai must be a person of fine clothes, fine food, gold and silver. Aunt Xue once said Miss Bao is very strange. "She never loves Hua'er Fener" Even the living quarters were so simple that the "blessed person" Jia Mu was very angry. After all, Miss Bao "A man who seldom speaks is called a fool; a man who keeps his peace at all times is self righteous." It is not her style to show her wealth without fear.

Baochai's clothes are always Semiold , soft and The Doctrine of the Mean It is not warm, and it is also different from Daiyu's general bleakness. Often used Light pink, light goose yellow, light apricot It is just like the gentle and dignified part of Baochai's character. Although these low-key colors Mixed with the grey tone full of life, it is matched with large gorgeous plump peonies It seems to confirm that Baochai will spend her life in the world, but she also cleverly hid a little "good wind with help, send me to Qingyun" in her heart.

Among Xue Baochai's clothes, the cotton padded jacket she wore on the stage must be the most talked about. Fashion designer Shi Yanqin racked his brains to find the color of this dress, and finally found the answer in the textual research of Mr. Deng Yunxiang, a Redologist - it was a color between apricot yellow and light pink, sweet and soft. Today, Who can't remember Sister Bao's honey colored jacket?

Wang Xifeng

Wang Xifeng, who smelled the powder without revealing the spring power, and whose red lips had not yet opened to smile, seemed to be wearing a bright suit. She always Bright and bright, bright red, rose red, peach red, and stone blue. The brightest colors mostly appear on Wang Xifeng In addition to Baoyu, she is also the person who wears red clothes for the most times in the whole play. But the most impressive one is the one who made her known as the Goddess Orange crepe skirt

Beaded hairpins, buns, wreaths, and rose pendants are all available. The elegant orange dress is very bright and eye-catching. Sister Feng, who appears in the free and easy laughter, sways like a burning golden phoenix. At the same time, withdraw Narrow faded jacket and stand collar design similar to cheongsam He also raised his figure to highlight his tall and slim figure, imposing and charming.

It is worth mentioning that Wang Xifeng Righting Tieyuan Temple Clothing in this chapter -- this is Wang Xifeng's work in the whole "Red Mansions" For the only time, the clothes were all black, and this bold color was unique among the twelve golden hairpins 。 The reason is that the Tieyuan Temple is a watershed in the transformation of Wang Xifeng's character image, and also for the first time shows her viciousness and ferocity beyond her fierceness and cheerfulness to readers and audiences. Wang Xifeng here disclosed that "she never believed in what the hell retribution is", and Sister Feng, who has amassed unjust wealth and tasted the sweetness, has been out of control ever since. And in the accessories of this suit, the ingenuity of design is also integrated, The elegant fur collar and Zhaojun jacket are made of fox skin , subtly implying Wang Xifeng's shrewdness and cunning of "a fire in the open, a knife in the dark". At that time, Wang Xifeng still vowed that he could survive the "tight north wind overnight".

Sanchun

Jia Yingchun, Jia Tanchun and Jia Xichun did not originally come from the same house, but they always went in and out together; Although they are accompanied by each other all the time, they still have their own characteristics - a single smile can reveal three distinct styles.

The meek "Ermu" ushers in the spring, and the gentle "Second Sister" is like a cluster of white and inconspicuous jasmine flowers that she once pierced with a needle under the shade of flowers alone, hiding from the crowd. hers The color is not bright, and the pattern is still small and silent winter jasmine ——The tragedy implied here is that the flower that blooms first in early spring may also fall first.

Perhaps Tan Chun hated her failure to be a man more than she hated herself for being a commoner. The ideal of creating a career out of the garden turned into the shrewdness and heroism rare among the twelve hairpins The design is generous and lively, and most of them use large color blocks and patterns, which are stretch and full of vitality 。 Every appearance of Tanchun is a declaration that there is no need for a thousand miles of east wind to send sails. In fact, the Japanese apricots of Yaochi Fairy have already blossomed.

Xichun is still a girl who has not yet grown up, but she can break the dark future in silence. She is an introverted and aloof "hard hearted person" With flowers without leaves to match her, she does not wear clothes with high color saturation, which is light and mild 。 The cool clothing predicts her fate of lying alone beside the ancient Buddha in the green light, while the warm clothing indicates that she should have been lovely but never had time to grow up.


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